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Paul Smith holds on tight on the via ferrata route at Murren.
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Shaken and stirred in the Alps
Paul Smith1/ 7/2008
I'M not ashamed to admit that right now I'm absolutely terrified. The adrenaline is pumping round my body like a car-jacker in a Ferrari and my legs are shaking so much I could probably pass for an Elvis impersonator.
The view from where I'm standing is breathtaking - snow-capped peaks, cascading waterfalls and flowing meadows. But my eyes are scrunched tightly shut.
When I dare to open them all I can focus on are my trembling fingers as I gingerly undo one of the clips keeping me from plunging to certain death.
I'm nearing the end of one of the most frightening - and exhilarating - journeys of my life.
Separating me from the Lauterbrunnen valley floor hundreds of metres below is a narrow, drooping bridge which I'm edging across slowly and sideways, like a wary crab.
A gentle sway caused by another mountain masochist who has just stepped on behind me feels dangerously exaggerated and my overactive imagination is convinced I'm about to fall.
But if I do, chances are I'll suffer nothing more serious than blind panic and a bruised ego.
I'm attached to the 80m Nepal bridge by the ropes and harness which have kept me safe around the entire 2.2km route of the via ferrata at Murren, in the Swiss Alps.
Thrills and sights
Via ferrata - Italian for iron road - is an emerging mountain sport which allows novices to sample thrills and sights once exclusive to experienced climbers.
A network of metal rungs, cables and ladders built into the mountain let you navigate sheer cliff-faces with relative ease.
And, when the odd ravine gets in the way, there's always a nerve-racking method of crossing - suspended from a `flying fox' death slide or balancing on a `Tyrolienne' tight rope.
They sound scary - and they are - but compared to the Indiana Jones-style bridge suspended several Beetham Towers up, they're like something from a kiddies' playground.
The iron road may be embracing a wider audience, but it still requires a fair degree of fitness, courage and a serious head for heights.
The picture postcard village of Murren is home to the world's newest via ferrata, designed by local mountain guide Martin Schurmann.
The first were constructed by Italian soldiers nearly a century ago. They were used to transport soldiers over the Dolomites into Austria during the First World War. Thousands of the troops lost their lives on the treacherous mountainsides.
Nowadays, they are found across Europe and can make established summer action holiday favourites such as white water rafting and paragliding appear fairly tame.
Brooding shadow
Murren's setting, in the brooding shadow of the 13,600ft Jungfrau, makes it a special place to live life on the edge.
You begin the via ferrata at the Sportchalet, in Murren, and take the next three hours of so walking and climbing 300m down the mountain to the neighbouring village of Gimmewald.
Other via ferratas go up, but Martin decided descending would add to the drama as you have to look down more.
You can't blame him for wanting to put you through the wringer. It took him and a handful of brave friends 100 full days over six years to build the course, abseiling into position to drill in to the rock. But the via ferrata is so safe he tested it on his mum, who's in her sixties.
The iron road is free to use but there are boxes to make contributions along the route.
For inexperienced climbers, it's recommended that you hire a guide for around £48 per adult (£42 for 10 to 17-year-olds).
Included in the price is tuition, equipment rental - harness and helmet - and an added sense of safety.
A cable capable of holding three tonnes runs the length of the course.
You attach yourself to it with two clips - and when you have to undo one to pass a securing point, you always make sure the other remains in place. That way, if you slip, you survive.
Exposure
At times, the exposure is stunning as you suck in a deep breath of crisp air and muster the courage to peek into space through the metal rings.
From a couple of thousand feet the powerful Weisse Lutschine river is a thin grey line and large buildings are reduced to postage stamps. On arrival in Gimmewald, you'll probably need to calm your nerves with a beer or two before taking a more sedate route back - either by cable car or on foot.
The 45-minute hike to Murren shows off some of the Jungfrau region's beautiful fauna and flora. The area is popular with walkers attracted by the multicoloured and delicate Alpine flowers, deep green woodland and chocolate box cows. If you're lucky, you may spot the elusive, goat-like Chamois.
Murren, a popular ski resort known for the stamina-sapping inferno race, is home to a range of friendly hotels and guesthouses.
You can't get there by car, but Swiss trains run like clockwork and from Zurich you can be in Lauterbrunnen in about three hours. From there you take the short narrow gauge railway ride up to Murren.
Take the cable car up the mountain and you reach the Schilthorn and its revolving peak-top restaurant, the Piz Gloria - famous as Blofeld's lair in the James Bond film On Her Majesty's Secret Service.
Sipping my martini at the bar, I wonder what Bond would have made of that bridge. I bet even he'd have been a bit shaken.
Four-star Hotel Eiger prices start from £67pppn in June, Aug-Sept (CHF135) and from £72 (CHF145) pppn in July based on two sharing a room on a b&b basis. Facilities include a private swimming pool/sauna and sunbed. For reservations: hoteleiger.com three-star Hotel Jungfrau prices start from £50 pppn in (CHF100) based on two sharing a room on a b&b basis. For reservations:
hoteljungfrau.ch Eiger Guesthouse: prices from £25 pppn (CHF50) based on two sharing a room with basin on a b&b basis and shared facilities. For reservations:
eigerguesthouse.com. Swissoperates daily flights from Manchester to Zurich. Fares start from £103.* return, including all airport taxes. (*Please note this is a leading fare and is subject to change, availability and may not be available on all flights. Terms and conditions apply.) For reservations call 0845 601 0956 or visit: swiss.com Rail transfers from all airport stations in Switzerland can be booked via the Switzerland Travel Centre on: myswitzerland.com/rail or call freephone 00800 100 200 30. Please note that for 2-5 people travelling together a 15 per cent discount is offered: For details of activities, dining, general information and packages available in the Jungfrau region, visit:
myjungfrau.ch and for information about Switzerland visit:
myswitzerland.com
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