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Coniston is famous for its lake and connections.
Coniston is famous for its lake and connections.
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Wander lonely as a cloud

Susan Press
16/ 6/2008

THE Lake District enjoys some of the most gorgeous scenery in Britain - which means that for most of the year it has an absolute deluge of visitors.

But even in the high season there are still places where you can escape from the crowds and wander, Wordsworth-style, lonely as a cloud.

Coniston Coppermines is one such spot. Once a place where local workers toiled in unbelievably harsh conditions, it is now a bolt-hole for couples seeking a romantic weekend, families who want a quiet break, and even business people looking for time out to do a spot of team-building.

They all stay in a small cluster of four holiday cottages, ingeniously converted from an old sawmill by local entrepreneur Philip Johnston, who also owns around 70 other places in the vicinity. But the Coppermines location is particularly special.

It's just a couple of miles outside the busy village of Coniston, famed for its lake and its connections with the ill-fated Donald Campbell, whose Bluebird speedboat crashed on the lake and led to his death.

Campbell's local, The Black Bull, still commemorates the tragic day in 1967 with lots of memorabilia and photos. It is also the social epicentre of the village and boasts good ale, decent food and loads of history. Coniston also has a couple of other pubs, cafes and shops.

A world away

However, once you set off on the rough track leading to the Coppermines it really is a world away from the mass tourism you find in Coniston and in most other parts of the Lakes

The terrain surrounding the cottages is seriously rugged, bordering on the bleak.

The only other building around is a youth hostel and most of the other inhabitants, ie Herdwick sheep, have four legs rather than two . The air is clear and fresh and birdsong is the only sound you will hear in the morning. Indeed, so relatively isolated is this spot that allegedly, in happier days, Paul McCartney and his ex-wife Heather Mills enjoyed a cosy weekend here far from the crowds.

So, as you can imagine, the cottage facilities apparently enjoyed by Macca and his missus are far from basic.

Their rustic charm includes well-equipped kitchens; log fires, beamed bedrooms, and en-suite bathrooms - plus creature comforts like a TV and microwave.

The cottages all inter-connect so accommodation is available from two to 30 people - and even pets are welcome.

Popular

So popular is the spot that booking is advised months before you plan a break. The surrounding countryside is great for anything from walking, to rock climbing, abseiling, and gorge scrambling, to mountain biking, cycling, orienteering, canoeing, sailing, fishing, horse riding and pony trekking.

Those who are not so energetic may prefer to drive to gentler terrain and explore the surrounding valleys, which were the inspiration for Beatrix Potter's tales.

Coniston also inspired Arthur Ransome to write Swallows And Amazons and boat trips round the lake are a highlight of any visit.

However, you might prefer as we did to just take in the beauties of nature, laze around and enjoy the scenery, cook nice meals and enjoy a romantic break away from it all.

Shops and the pub are a good 30-minute walk away so stock up with food beforehand.

If you can bear to tear yourself away, and want to walk into the village for a swift half at night, the track is rough and it gets very dark and cold, so take a torch and a warm sweater.

Coniston Coppermines Holiday Cottages, coppermines.co.uk; lakescottages (015394 41765)


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